TECHNIQUE
Airbrush Blending
You just can't blend with a brush, no matter how hard you try? Do this instead.
Blending with a regular brush is notoriously hard to learn, and much harder to master.
You've already tried doing those smooth transitions, right? Something all high-tier painters seem to do perfectly and easily, but... something unachievable to us mere mortals.
That's why the first time you'll do an AIRBRUSH blend, it would feel like cheating.
You'll get spectacular results, in a very small time frame, without the horrible self-torture that is regular brush blending.
You've already tried doing those smooth transitions, right? Something all high-tier painters seem to do perfectly and easily, but... something unachievable to us mere mortals.
That's why the first time you'll do an AIRBRUSH blend, it would feel like cheating.
You'll get spectacular results, in a very small time frame, without the horrible self-torture that is regular brush blending.
The easiest way to blend
I've been struggling for a long time, trying to achieve smooth transitions with regular brush, and failing to grasp the skill again and again. Then, one day, I tried airbrushing my minis. This is the result I've got:
Literally the first minis I've painted with an airbrush
It turned out to be SO EASY to blend with an airbrush! My only thought was "Why haven't I learnt this earlier?" I could've done so much stuff, paint a lot of minis at a great quality!
If you were painting with brush only, first time you do Airbrush Blending you will feel either cheated or cheating.
After several painting projects I've improved my technique, to the level of winning GenCon Painting Contest in "Unit" category:
If you were painting with brush only, first time you do Airbrush Blending you will feel either cheated or cheating.
After several painting projects I've improved my technique, to the level of winning GenCon Painting Contest in "Unit" category:
Airbrush Blending is a must-have technique in your painting arsenal. Whether you're someone new to the hobby, seasoned competitive painter, or a commission artist having a pleasure of doing a Space Marines chapter.
You can do well without an airbrush, but you don't want to.
If you've read the LazyPainter Method PDF, you might remember that airbrushing is an optional step in Speedpainting SAW. But still, it's better to have this step to optimize your miniature painting in both time and quality.
In case you've missed it, you can get the Method PDF here. It's a quick 10-15 minutes read:
You can do well without an airbrush, but you don't want to.
If you've read the LazyPainter Method PDF, you might remember that airbrushing is an optional step in Speedpainting SAW. But still, it's better to have this step to optimize your miniature painting in both time and quality.
In case you've missed it, you can get the Method PDF here. It's a quick 10-15 minutes read:
Today's article isn't something like "Airbrushing 101". We won't touch basic airbrush handling, since it would take another full article to cover all the basics (but let me know if such article is needed — in the comments below).
We'll focus on Airbrush Blending — the most basic airbrushing technique.
Once you're comfortable with airbrush in general (you can spray some paint onto a surface in a more or less controllable manner), start with this.
Airbrush Blending is such a fundamental thing, that it probably shouldn't even be called "technique". It's just a basic use of an airbrush. And that's why you should master it first and foremost.
We'll focus on Airbrush Blending — the most basic airbrushing technique.
Once you're comfortable with airbrush in general (you can spray some paint onto a surface in a more or less controllable manner), start with this.
Airbrush Blending is such a fundamental thing, that it probably shouldn't even be called "technique". It's just a basic use of an airbrush. And that's why you should master it first and foremost.
Airbrush Blending
Airbrush Blending means doing a smooth color transition on a surface, using an airbrush, with regular paints, in several coats of different colors. It's like classic Layering, but with an airbrush.
This is a quick example, which I'll explain in details later
Sequence of steps may vary, but usually it would be one of the following:
Paint consistency should be "somewhat diluted" (that's a technical term). You can go with lightly diluted paint, which means more coarse transitions and less painting time. Or you can dilute more heavily, doing more controlled semi-transparent coats, for an even smoother and accurate blend.
Nozzle size of 0.15 - 0.20 would be the most convenient for this technique. It is still doable with 0.3, but would became harder with 0.4 and up.
- Shadow > mid-tone > highlight > extreme highlight
- Mid-tone > shadows > highlight > extreme highlight
- Mid-tone > shadows > mid-tone > highlight > extreme highligh
Paint consistency should be "somewhat diluted" (that's a technical term). You can go with lightly diluted paint, which means more coarse transitions and less painting time. Or you can dilute more heavily, doing more controlled semi-transparent coats, for an even smoother and accurate blend.
Nozzle size of 0.15 - 0.20 would be the most convenient for this technique. It is still doable with 0.3, but would became harder with 0.4 and up.
Example: Zuyong Infantry
In this example I'm doing "Mid-tone > shadows > mid-tone > highlight" process. And although the sequence of steps could be different, the technique itself would remain the same.
Before this process, the model is undercoated with Vallejo Black Primer.
(1) Airbrush Blending — Basecoat
VGC Jade Green
Before this process, the model is undercoated with Vallejo Black Primer.
(1) Airbrush Blending — Basecoat
VGC Jade Green
At this step I cover almost all the surface. Still, I do more coats (more opacity) on the upper parts of the model, as if the light is coming from above. This way, black undercoat blends with jade basecoat and creates natural shadow from below (where there's less light naturally).
My aim here is to create solid opaque color in the upper part of the model (when we're looking from above), and semi-transparent color in shadows (when we're looking from below).
(2) Airbrush Blending — Shadows
GW Rhinox Hide
My aim here is to create solid opaque color in the upper part of the model (when we're looking from above), and semi-transparent color in shadows (when we're looking from below).
(2) Airbrush Blending — Shadows
GW Rhinox Hide
At this step I create more pronounced shadows exactly where I need them. As you can see, I'm slightly overdoing this step. That's OK, since we'll be retouching our mid-tones next.
The goal here is to create deep shadows that would provide overall contrast. Without this step, you risk getting a dull, boring, low-contrast outcome.
(3) Airbrush Blending — Mid-tones retouching
VGC Jade Green
The goal here is to create deep shadows that would provide overall contrast. Without this step, you risk getting a dull, boring, low-contrast outcome.
(3) Airbrush Blending — Mid-tones retouching
VGC Jade Green
Next I use the same basecoat color to rebuild mid-tones and bring my shadows to the amount I need. At this step you need to be accurate to not destroy your shadows completely (in which case you'll have to go back to previous step).
(4) Airbrush Blending — Highlight
VGC Jade Green + VMA White
(4) Airbrush Blending — Highlight
VGC Jade Green + VMA White
Finally, I do the highlight, decreasing the area that I spray with paint. I try to do small focused bursts, to create bright highlights, but limited to a small area. There would be some overspray anyway, so try to be as accurate as you can.
Typical mistake at this step would be overdoing highlights and destroying shadows and contrast.
This is a tricky balance, and it's OK if you don't grasp this balance immediately. My first minis were definitely simpler than this example, with less contrast and more overall spraying (than accurate focused bursts).
Here's the same example shown from another angles. I invite you to closely study these photos, to better understand where exactly I'm applying my colors at each step:
Typical mistake at this step would be overdoing highlights and destroying shadows and contrast.
This is a tricky balance, and it's OK if you don't grasp this balance immediately. My first minis were definitely simpler than this example, with less contrast and more overall spraying (than accurate focused bursts).
Here's the same example shown from another angles. I invite you to closely study these photos, to better understand where exactly I'm applying my colors at each step:
At this point the speedpainting phase of PSR Formula (from the LazyPainter Method) ends, and next comes refining stage with quite an amount of brushwork, leading to this final result:
While overall final look of the model differs quite dramatically from what you've seen at the end of airbrushing example, Jade armor itself is unchanged. There's just some brushwork added on top of that: line washing, edge highlight, PoL and freehands (I'll do a complete step-by-step guide on this lovely Zuyong Infantry models at a later date).
Probably now, looking at this photo, you can discern the steps done with Airbrush Blending: jade basecoat, dark red-brown shadows, and whitened highlights.
Probably now, looking at this photo, you can discern the steps done with Airbrush Blending: jade basecoat, dark red-brown shadows, and whitened highlights.
Airbrushing Tricks
There's few tricks I'd like to point out, that can help you with your Airbrush Blending:
Using model shape. You can (and should) use 3D shape of the model to help yourself getting the paint where it needs to be.
Remember me talking about accuracy-based technique and shape-based techniques in Washing tutorial? Airbrush blending is a bit of both.
You don't have to spray at 90 degrees to the surface of the model. Often it's more convenient to turn the model and spray at an angle (15-30-60 degrees to the surface). This way you'll be hitting only parts that you need to paint. And parts that you want to protect from overspray would be covered by the shape of the model itself.
Masking. Another great trick to improve your airbrushing is masking. Masking means covering some parts of the model, to protect them from getting sprayed. This way you can spray more than 1 color, or (for example) protect lower parts of the model when you're highlighting upper parts.
Masking could be done in lots of different ways: with masking tapes, masking liquids, transparent plastic food film, a piece of cardboard or even just your finger (yep, I used all of these).
Plastic food film is my personal favorite. And I distrust liquid mask, after ruining couple of models with it (at least that's my experience with Vallejo Liquid Mask).
Skipping Zenithal Undercoat. While I usually advocate for doing zenithal undercoat, I don't recommend it here. If you're spraying most of the miniature with regular opaque paint, you'll cover zenithal brightness gradient, and would render it's effect almost invisible.
It wouldn't hurt to do zenithal (to better see the volumes of the model for example). But the effect it brings is so insignificant, that I consider it a waste of time in case of Airbrush Blending.
Using model shape. You can (and should) use 3D shape of the model to help yourself getting the paint where it needs to be.
Remember me talking about accuracy-based technique and shape-based techniques in Washing tutorial? Airbrush blending is a bit of both.
You don't have to spray at 90 degrees to the surface of the model. Often it's more convenient to turn the model and spray at an angle (15-30-60 degrees to the surface). This way you'll be hitting only parts that you need to paint. And parts that you want to protect from overspray would be covered by the shape of the model itself.
Masking. Another great trick to improve your airbrushing is masking. Masking means covering some parts of the model, to protect them from getting sprayed. This way you can spray more than 1 color, or (for example) protect lower parts of the model when you're highlighting upper parts.
Masking could be done in lots of different ways: with masking tapes, masking liquids, transparent plastic food film, a piece of cardboard or even just your finger (yep, I used all of these).
Plastic food film is my personal favorite. And I distrust liquid mask, after ruining couple of models with it (at least that's my experience with Vallejo Liquid Mask).
Skipping Zenithal Undercoat. While I usually advocate for doing zenithal undercoat, I don't recommend it here. If you're spraying most of the miniature with regular opaque paint, you'll cover zenithal brightness gradient, and would render it's effect almost invisible.
It wouldn't hurt to do zenithal (to better see the volumes of the model for example). But the effect it brings is so insignificant, that I consider it a waste of time in case of Airbrush Blending.
Final thoughts
Airbrush Blending is a must-have technique for any miniature painting with an airbrush. It's super basic, but at the same time gives fantastic results.
It doesn't mean you should do it on every model though.
Airbrush Blending is not so good for:
- Models without big homogenous surfaces
- Models with several different surfaces of approximately the same size (check out Ghulam Infantry Guide as an example of this)
- Models with lots of details or almost consisting of details (which you intend to paint in different colors)
Airbrush Blending is superb for:
- Models with a big homogeneous surface that easily stands out (armor, big skin area, something like Space Marines, sci-fi heavy infantry like the Zuyong Infantry seen in this article)
- Models with few surfaces that can be easily separated with masking
- OSL (object source lighting) effects of any kind
- Big models (fantasy monsters, Infinity TAGs, etc)
Give it a go, and let me know what results you'll get with it.
It doesn't mean you should do it on every model though.
Airbrush Blending is not so good for:
- Models without big homogenous surfaces
- Models with several different surfaces of approximately the same size (check out Ghulam Infantry Guide as an example of this)
- Models with lots of details or almost consisting of details (which you intend to paint in different colors)
Airbrush Blending is superb for:
- Models with a big homogeneous surface that easily stands out (armor, big skin area, something like Space Marines, sci-fi heavy infantry like the Zuyong Infantry seen in this article)
- Models with few surfaces that can be easily separated with masking
- OSL (object source lighting) effects of any kind
- Big models (fantasy monsters, Infinity TAGs, etc)
Give it a go, and let me know what results you'll get with it.
Thanks for checking out this article, hope it would be helpful in your miniature painting. If you now a friend who might benefit from it too — please send them a link or use social media buttons above.
If you want to connect and talk about this technique or about hobby in general, ask some questions or share photos of your miniature paintings — hop on LazyPainter Discord server.
Paint smarter, not harder!
If you want to connect and talk about this technique or about hobby in general, ask some questions or share photos of your miniature paintings — hop on LazyPainter Discord server.
Paint smarter, not harder!
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